How to Choose Laser Welded Saw Blade?
How to Choose the Right Laser Welded Saw Blade(th,tr,es) for Your Project ...
1. Understanding Laser Welded Saw Blades
Laser welded saw blades are essential tools for construction contractors involved in reinforced concrete cutting. These blades are designed through a precise process that enhances their durability and efficiency, making them perfect for heavy-duty applications. Choosing the right laser welded saw blade can significantly impact your project's success.
2. Key Factors to Consider
3. Common Mistakes to Avoid
Many construction contractors make mistakes when selecting laser welded saw blades. Here are some key mistakes to avoid:
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- Not understanding the material you're cutting. Ensure you match the blade with the specific material to avoid premature wear.
- Ignoring the manufacturer's guidelines regarding maximum RPM and feed rates.
- Failing to consider blade maintenance, which can greatly affect the blade's lifespan.
4. Comparison Table of Laser Welded Saw Blades
Blade Type Material Grit Size Diameter (inches) Best for Type A Diamond Fine 14 Precise Cuts Type B Carbide Coarse 12 Fast Cutting Type C HSS Medium 10 Versatile Use5. Conclusion
Choosing the right laser welded saw blade can make a substantial difference in your construction projects. By understanding the materials, considering key factors like grit size and blade diameter, and avoiding common mistakes, you can ensure efficient and effective cutting. Always refer to comparison charts and follow manufacturer guidelines for the best results.
Tig weld band saw blades | Practical Machinist
Tig weld band saw blades
Khanh
I've done this a bunch of times. I had a lot of practice welding thin sheetmetal for auto restoration. Procedure was the same as welding with the blade welder. Grind faces of the blade to square them up, clamp blade in a fixture (mine was just a piece of angle iron with a flat bar for fence) tack in the center. When that cools it pulls the ends in tight. Then weld from the outside edges into the center. By doing it this way, you have less chance of melting away the sides and losing a tooth or two. Grind weld, and anneal to straw color with a propane torch. I've also had more success using a stainless filler wire instead of the the steel. Don't know why though.
With all that said, once my spool of bandsaw blade is done, I won't be welding any more of them. It's too much of an inconvience to stop in the middle of a job and spend all that time to save a few bucks.
J.
Why don't you just make a bunch up at once? That way you have some when you break one.
Latley I've been experimenting with run on/ run off tabs (using pieces of old blade) to stop the edges notching out. I might have to try JJclear's trick and see if that gets a better result. I also have 3 or 4 hanging on a hook so that I have a spare or two if one breaks at an inconvenient time.
Michael As others have commented, you CAN TIG them, but I am not sure why you would when brazing is a little better IMO. A small fixture and hi content silver solder will produce an amazingly strong joint.
If you have a good beveled edge and clean joint, add flux and tad bit of silver solder and you are done in a matter of seconds!!!
I make several blades at once and they last forever!
Grant thanks Formchanger,
I also need even more detailed info, like type of tungsten, DCEN or DCEP etc, as I am totally new and need all the info I can get.
Jackalope, I know it can be silver soldered well, I am just trying to master different techniques with the new tig machine. It's a Miller 200 Synchro.
I would like to be able to weld small thin materials if the need arises.
Thanks
Michael Details? I'm a bit of a plug and play welder myself. The electrodes are the ones that were recommended when I bought the welder - red stripe. Recently I read an article from Miller saying that for low amperage starts the blue stripe electrodes are better. The electrodes are plugged in the normal way as per the machine manual. I remember being told once that reversing the electrode polarity on a TIG machine unless for a special reason was not a good idea as the usual polarity would heat the work more than the electrode, where as the other way would heat the electrode more, giving decreased electrode life. The Miller manuals are pretty good - I'd suggest reading it and that should tell you most of what you want to know.
The best suggestion I can make is get an old blade, cut it up into segments and then practice welding it together. Sooner or later you'll discover what works best for your rig (and you). Make up a jig to hold the blade in the right position while you weld.
One advantage of TIG- ing blades together is that if one breaks it can be joined together with next to no loss of length (Not that any of us ever break a blade by doing anything silly right?), where as brazing consumes blade length for joint prep. As my cut off saw has limited blade length adjustment, that is a plus for me
Khanh
I've done this a bunch of times. I had a lot of practice welding thin sheetmetal for auto restoration. Procedure was the same as welding with the blade welder. Grind faces of the blade to square them up, clamp blade in a fixture (mine was just a piece of angle iron with a flat bar for fence) tack in the center. When that cools it pulls the ends in tight. Then weld from the outside edges into the center. By doing it this way, you have less chance of melting away the sides and losing a tooth or two. Grind weld, and anneal to straw color with a propane torch. I've also had more success using a stainless filler wire instead of the the steel. Don't know why though.
With all that said, once my spool of bandsaw blade is done, I won't be welding any more of them. It's too much of an inconvience to stop in the middle of a job and spend all that time to save a few bucks.
J.
Khanh
I've done this a bunch of times. I had a lot of practice welding thin sheetmetal for auto restoration. Procedure was the same as welding with the blade welder. Grind faces of the blade to square them up, clamp blade in a fixture (mine was just a piece of angle iron with a flat bar for fence) tack in the center. When that cools it pulls the ends in tight. Then weld from the outside edges into the center. By doing it this way, you have less chance of melting away the sides and losing a tooth or two. Grind weld, and anneal to straw color with a propane torch. I've also had more success using a stainless filler wire instead of the the steel. Don't know why though.
With all that said, once my spool of bandsaw blade is done, I won't be welding any more of them. It's too much of an inconvience to stop in the middle of a job and spend all that time to save a few bucks.
J.
Why don't you just make a bunch up at once? That way you have some when you break one.
Why don't you just make a bunch up at once? That way you have some when you break one.That would be the right thing to do. I didn't know I could TIG a bimetal blade, never tried, thanks Moonlight! A new bimetal blade runs me about $30. It's not that I have $$$ to burn, but I'd rather be making chips. Michael, the tungsten should be chosen to suit the amperage. I TIG my blades (25 thou thick) with a maximum current of around 35 to 40A. However, I use a copper backing block to stop melt through which will need some more heat.
Latley I've been experimenting with run on/ run off tabs (using pieces of old blade) to stop the edges notching out. I might have to try JJclear's trick and see if that gets a better result. I also have 3 or 4 hanging on a hook so that I have a spare or two if one breaks at an inconvenient time.
Michael As others have commented, you CAN TIG them, but I am not sure why you would when brazing is a little better IMO. A small fixture and hi content silver solder will produce an amazingly strong joint.
If you have a good beveled edge and clean joint, add flux and tad bit of silver solder and you are done in a matter of seconds!!!
I make several blades at once and they last forever!
Grant thanks Formchanger,
I also need even more detailed info, like type of tungsten, DCEN or DCEP etc, as I am totally new and need all the info I can get.
Jackalope, I know it can be silver soldered well, I am just trying to master different techniques with the new tig machine. It's a Miller 200 Synchro.
I would like to be able to weld small thin materials if the need arises.
Thanks
Michael Details? I'm a bit of a plug and play welder myself. The electrodes are the ones that were recommended when I bought the welder - red stripe. Recently I read an article from Miller saying that for low amperage starts the blue stripe electrodes are better. The electrodes are plugged in the normal way as per the machine manual. I remember being told once that reversing the electrode polarity on a TIG machine unless for a special reason was not a good idea as the usual polarity would heat the work more than the electrode, where as the other way would heat the electrode more, giving decreased electrode life. The Miller manuals are pretty good - I'd suggest reading it and that should tell you most of what you want to know.
The best suggestion I can make is get an old blade, cut it up into segments and then practice welding it together. Sooner or later you'll discover what works best for your rig (and you). Make up a jig to hold the blade in the right position while you weld.
One advantage of TIG- ing blades together is that if one breaks it can be joined together with next to no loss of length (Not that any of us ever break a blade by doing anything silly right?), where as brazing consumes blade length for joint prep. As my cut off saw has limited blade length adjustment, that is a plus for me
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