Viewing a thread - Lift station in a basement - AgTalk Home

mtbrights
Posted 12/16/ 23:11 (#)
Subject: Lift station in a basement

Carter MontanaWorking on putting in a new basement under a house. It will be deeper and thus will likely necessitate a lift station. Anything I need to know in particular. Tank size, pumps, what to run into it ( such as the drain field around the outside of the foundation ). Oh, it's a big house, family of six, three baths, a basement and two stories above ground

Thanks much

Edited by mtbrights 12/16/ 23:14



Mather, Manitobayou using same septic tank?

My single level house only had a crawl space. Septic tank isn't in the ground too deep. Right beside house and never freezes being shallow. Old man added 42x30 addition on. With full basement. Two bathrooms and kitchen. which are both on main floor. Plumbed into crawl space and into shallow septic tank. Before back filling new basement, he put in drainage tile as usual and into a sump hole. Washer is in basement beside sump hole. In summer, sump pump drains outside and away from house. Winter I switch and pump out my sump hole into my septic tank. Sump pump is my only lift pump. Would be nice if my drainage tile goes direct into my sump hole. Runs alot after a heavy rain.


Carter MontanaActually this is in town so it's city sewer. BUT, I think the city line is to shallow for the 9 foot walls I'm after. Should be close either way.

southern MNMany city sewers do _not_ allow foundation drain water to go into the sewer drain, I'd look into that before doing it. Fine if they catch you trying to sneak that in....

Seperated sewer water & rain/ earth water any more.

--->Paul

NW WashingtonHere is a link to another site with a discussion of installing a grinder/lift station to pump up to your sewer line. You might be able to just install one of these for the basement bathrooms and drains too. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/plumbing/msg.html

If this is in town I am sure this situation will be covered by local building codes. Sounds expensive and potentially nasty if things don't work right.
Much info can be found on Google. http://www.eone.com/sewer_systems/extreme/products/grinderpumps/ind...


Embarrass WI

We have municipal sewer here. Our lift station is outside the house, a couple feet away but you are outside when you are servicing it. We have had ours for ~15 years, the pump has only been out twice (a tip-don't overdo a sink garbage disposal ).

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Anhui Tian jian.

Ours is in a fiberglass cylinder about 30 inches wide and 10 feet deep, has a flat lid on top held on with stainless 3/8" bolts, factory built for the application.

I would talk to a licensed plumber to make sure you do it according to code. It's cheaper in the long run that way.

Maybe Montana is more lenient than Wisconsin.

East Kansas, DeSotoWhat I have done and recommended others to do is away from home a ways dig a pit maybe some 10 by 10 feet square and put in some gravel and then pump the water to that pit . I did it for my self as I live in area of wet weather springs.. Our county does not let you send it to the septic system Gifford

So. ILI have poured over 100 basments so I have seen alot. You are going to need 2 catch basens, one for storm water, which is connected to the drain tile arround the footing of the walls. This water is pumped with a sump pump, and out in the yard on top is ok, or drainage ditch. The second bason you need is a sewage basen, which is completly sealed. The sewage drains from the basment runs into this basen, and a sewage ejector pump grinds it up and pumps it up (like a lift station ) and it discharges through a 2 inch pvc pipe. My uncle who lives in town ended up doing just that, as they dug his basment too deep and he ended up below the city sewer line. Any questions just post. I can get you pics of the different basens (one is sealed one is not ).

So. ILI forgot to say, but gravity flow as much as you can (1st and 2nd floor ), out of the house and not through this basen.


central - east central Minnesota -mtbrights - 12/16/ 22:11 Working on putting in a new basement under a house. It will be deeper and thus will likely necessitate a lift station. Anything I need to know in particular. Tank size, pumps, what to run into it ( such as the drain field around the outside of the foundation ). Oh, it's a big house, family of six, three baths, a basement and two stories above ground Thanks much

I'm not sure (and some of the other posters ) if you are talking just water sepage or sewer waste water or both? Here, tileing sepage water can not be drained to the septic tank/system - the sepage water tile would go into a basket and  a sump pump lifts the water up to a pvc pipe and carry it along the floor trusses or joist and out the rim - the pvc sticks out the rim/house about 1 ft (min ) and you can hook a hose on it to extend it further out on the lawn or into a storm drain out on the street. THe new systems are sealed baskets and the floor has plastic down and sealed to the footing concrete. This allows for Radon gas to be vented out of the basket also, so the basket serves a dual purpose. Don't care to drain the foundation into a french type drain (if you are in clays ), never know if it's going to work and not flood the basement. Simpler to see it run outside ontop the ground. Hopefull, it will never be used, if the basement foundation and walls are water proofed correctly.

Now for sewer - the up stairs (main floor and higher ) would flow down to a 45° or 90° degree elbows of the pipe going to the street. No need to dump it in a sewer lift basket and have the pump handle all the home waste. Only the floor drains, possible washer and toliets/sinks in the basement would use the sewer basket/pump in the basement. This lift pipe hooks into the pipe going to the street, above the elbow (grinder pump lifts it up there. Invest in a very good quality grinder pump for the basement. You get what you pay for here. Liberty and little giant are a couple names - again, they all offer a good, better and best unit/price. Work with a distributer for those, the big box home improvment stores do not offer the best . . .

(PA.JPG)



(PA.JPG)



(PC.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
PA.JPG (71KB - downloads)
PA.JPG (71KB - downloads)
PC.JPG (59KB - downloads)


Central Mo

When you are putting the sump in your basement do whatever you have to to contain the overflow  WHEN   (not if )  it backs up.  Or put the sump outside. 

when my son was in college the house he lived in had the sump in the basement with the drain tiles around the foundation coming in and then being pumped out.  Of course the electricity went out during a storm and wah lah the whole basement flooded.  If you do put it in the basement at least make the sump pit high enough so  when it does back up it will gravity feed to a clear drain.

Are you interested in learning more about Basement Sewer Lift Station? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Carter MontanaLots of great ideas in this post. Running the first and second floor gravity feed makes perfect sense. So, Keller does the one for the drain field generally go outside or inside. Should I "spider web" lines under the basement floor as well to the drain field or is that overkill? The floor will be rebarred but just need to go under it. I don't THINK it will run much anyway, but now is the time to do it.


central - east central Minnesota -mtbrights - 12/17/ 07:37 Lots of great ideas in this post. Running the first and second floor gravity feed makes perfect sense. So, Keller does the one for the drain field generally go outside or inside. Should I "spider web" lines under the basement floor as well to the drain field or is that overkill? The floor will be rebarred but just need to go under it. I don't THINK it will run much anyway, but now is the time to do it.

Not understanding your question - I'll give it a shot anyway. The drain tile goes on each side of the footing, following footing around to sump basket in a corner - general location. No need to spider it through out the basement floor. Start with a high end and have the tile flow to the sump basket. The outside drain tile should have drainage ports through the footing connecting to the inside drain tile. I don't like that method, if a guy has enough fall to day light the outside drain tile or build a french drain bed as Gifford explained. If you are in sandy gravel, moot point . . It's heavy clay that the drian tile needs to be drained to sump basket then pumped.

On the outside footing draintile, it is highly recommended (code here ) to place ¾ rock around and over the tile. THen I use landscape fabric to cover the rock and back fill in layers and lightly pack. The drain tile should be socked (fabric cover over the tile ) to keep slit out of the tile - it'll end up in your sump basket and your sump pump will pick up the silt . . .  wearing out the sump impeller . .

Edited by iseedit 12/17/ 09:35
ekeller2
Posted 12/17/ 13:12 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: Lift station in a basement

So. ILIm not sure im exactly following your question.

First lets start off with the storm water, the rain water that floods into basments if not taken care of. We used a product called form a drain, its a hollow 2x6 or 2x8 plastic tube, that is used to form up the footing. This will drain all of you storm water, inside the walls or outside the walls. Its connected in 2 loops, with a half dozen sections of 2 inch pipe between the loops to make cross overs. This needs to be connected to the sump basen, on the inside of your basment. The top is usually flush with the top of the basment floor. No spiderwebing of drain tile under the floor is needed. The outside of the footing needs to be covered with clean drain rock after the walls are poured and waterproofed. Be sure to request sprayed on waterproofing, not the rolled on crap in the 5 gallon bucket. Sprayed on will keep your basment dry if the walls crack (they will ).

Second we will cover the house hold sewage. As said before, drain the first and second floor by gravity, to either your city sewer (if avaible ) or to your septic tank. If you plan to have a toilet/sink/drain in the basment you are going to need a sealed sewage basen. iseedit posted a pic of a sealed basen for you. This basen also goes in with the top flush with the top of the basment floor. All that needs to me done is to connect all of the basment sewage drains to this basen and install a sewage injector pump. Then it will grind and pump is out to the septic tank or the city sewer. Feel free to me if you need some pics.milofarmer1
Posted 12/17/ 14:19 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: Lift station in a basement


Texas/New Mexico StatelineThe basement sewer water in my In-laws house goes into a sump. Then it pumps it into the septic tank the rest of the house flows into. Has worked for about 15 years with minimal maintenance. As was stated I don't think this is a piece of equipment you want to skimp on. Brain storming I would want another pump set about 1' higher in case the primary pump went out. Maybe that is overkill but I would feel better.mtbrights
Posted 12/17/ 16:23 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: Lift station in a basement

Low $850 Average  $2,325 High  $3,800

Maintenance and Repair

It's usually best to have a professional maintain and repair your sewage ejector pump. But there are a few basic maintenance duties you can take on yourself.

Frequently check the oil level and top it off as needed. Make sure that the pump is working by turning the circuit breaker off and on again. With the pump turned off at the circuit breaker, wipe down the pump's casing with a clean, dry cloth.

System Requirements

A vent is required for a sewage ejector pump installation to equalize pressure during pumping and to provide an outlet for sewer gasses. The vent comes out of the sump pit and is either connected to an existing vent (soil) stack or runs up and through the roof.

The outlet pipe leaving the sewage ejector pump is usually 2 to 4 inches in diameter, connecting to the 3- to 6-inch main sewer line. Between the pump outlet point and the junction with the main sewer line, there is always a check valve to make sure that nothing drains back into the sump basin after the wastewater is pumped out. When it is installed properly, the top of the sump basin is sealed so that no waste or smell can come out of the top of the basin.

Installation Considerations

Before installing a sewage ejector pump, check with your local building department. Different communities may have unique plumbing and building codes and permit requirements. Any work involving septic or sewer lines will likely require a permit.

Ejector pumps come in various sizes (horsepower), and the basins have different hold capacities. For the average residential installation, a standard pump kit with a 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower motor and 30- or 40-gallon is usually sufficient.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Commercial Sewage Lift Station. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.